This is an ambitious endeavor, covering fermentation in all its forms, all over the world.
After getting into sourdough baking, I developed a preference for “scientific” cookbooks, using weight measurements (metric) with page layouts that are clearly formatted for ease of visual discrimination as one skims the the work. However, all these books invariably ended up being messy and touchy feely when describing how to develop a starter.
Fermentation is the art of a collecting things, shoving them into a favorable environment, and letting time do its thing.
As modern humans, we are given an illusion of control. However, choosing to ferment is a leap of faith, especially at the idiosyncratic home-brew level and especially in one’s first attempts.
But one should start simply, with the a basic sauerkraut. The first batch I made was with some almost-wilted purple cabbage that had been abandoned in the fridge. I chopped it up, squeezed the leaves as I added salt, shoved it all into a jar. A couple days later I had the best sauerkraut I’ve ever tasted in my life.
Absolute magic.
My sourdough starter is also magical, but it took two long weeks of feeding and discarding before she came to life. It then took another three weeks before I figured out how to bake properly to draw out her full capabilities.
In contrast, sauerkraut was so simple. Just two ingredients shoved into a jar for a couple days. Fermentation happens, and this book is a lovely mix of folksy wisdom, extensive experience, and authoritative research that wrestles with this unruly topic.
This book is an encyclopedic and magisterial work. I wonder what it’s like to work on such a project. Writing is a lonely task and any ambitious project is fraught with insecurity. With this grand title, it’s clear that Sandor Katz knew this was going to be his magnum opus. I also wonder how it feels when such a project achieves the author’s dreams of grandeur, winning a James Beard award and being generally regarded as a in instant classic in the field.
This book is victorious, but whatever brilliance earned from the previous project is fleeting. There’s always the next project. Life (and fermentation) marches on, and I look forward to reading Sandor’s newest book, Fermentation as Metaphor.
Postscript
I really like the following quote, but I couldn’t fit them into the post above.
Professor Kosikowski won over Kindstedt and his fellow graduate students. “He understood that traditional cheesemaking was not simply about food, or even gastronomic delight, but rather carried with it the weight of the culture and local identity that are so essential for providing context and meaning to our lives.” Indeed, all food exists in a broad context, and centralized mass produced food diminishes that context.
page 206