GRIZZLY PEAR

written snapshots

Category: Notes

  • Bread, 23 September 2018

    We decided to make pancakes for Saturday morning so I bulked up my starter the night before.  With such happy starter in the kitchen, I had to make bread with it, even though I still have half a loaf from last week’s late bake.

    400g flour
    300g water
    100g starter (the usual 50/50 mix)
    10g salt
    60g rehydrated figs
    60g chia seeds, soaked in 90g water
    40g flaxseed meal, soaked in 80g water

    With fresh starter, the proof started very nicely, but we went to a 3pm event at the library, so I had to put the dough into the fridge.  Sunday was spent with one of our daughter’s friends, so I didn’t get around to baking till Sunday night.  All this was a minor of a shame, since that dough was in a really, really good mood when it was first put in the fridge.

    By the time I took out the dough, it was on the verge of being overproofed.  It wasn’t so bad I had to attempt a rescue, but it was barely able to hold its shape. For the bake itself, I also tried the two tweaks I mentioned last week – I just baked at 450f the whole time, and I started with a cold lid.  Given the state of the dough, I think the bread rose just fine so I plan on adopting these for the future.

    As for the bread itself, it has the usual tight crumb, which I don’t love because  big open airy crumb is in fashion but I’ve given up trying to change since it’s good at catching butter butter.  The flavor is slightly sour, given the 30 extra hours in the fridge, but not as strong as last weeks loaf which spent a good 60 hours in the fridge.

    In non-bread news, we also made pork wontons using the Kitchenaid pasta maker last night.  The recipe came from the web with a 180 flour, 26 egg, 64 water ratio.  Our egg was 45g so the ratio was upped accordingly and I accidentally added a 16g too much much water, so I had to add another 32g of flour.  The wrappers came out fine.  It seems the best process for making this dough is to let it rest (in a closed container to keep moisture) a lot along the way.  In the future I’ll mix, rest, divide and flatten each ball at the 1 setting, and then thin it all the way down on an as needed basis.

    For the filling, my wife used our brand new new Kitchenaid food grinder.  The meat was a bit lean, but there were no glitches with the tool itself.  I can’t complain, it was deeply satisfying to use these things we purchased to celebrate the new job and its pay raise.  The bigger numbers on the biweekly check is nice, but it’s feels good to have some toys also.

  • Bread, 16-18 September 2018

    We had some old cream that was set to expire, so we made some butter last Saturday.  With the butter came buttermilk, which I had never tasted in its non-cultured form.  I didn’t realize that non-cultured buttermilk would taste (like milk, duh!) but I was kind of disappointed.

    However, leftover buttermilk would be perfect for one thing, making an enriched bread.  We had a birthday party to attend that day, so we refrigerated the buttermilk for a mix on Sunday morning.  So I took the usual 4-3-1-.1 recipe to make an enriched bread

    400g flour
    150g buttermilk + 150g milk
    100g starter (the usual 50/50 mix)
    10g salt
    60g melted butter
    60g chia seeds soaked in 90g water

    We started with a twist I don’t plan on repeating.  I decided to mix the dough in the kitchenaid.  The machine seems to work just fine, but since I don’t normally  handknead (it’s too wet a mix for hand kneading) this doesn’t save any effort and it alienates me from the dough and the tactile feedback that comes from hand mixing.

    After that came the second twist.  We found out there was a drum circle in the Summerlin library in the afternoon.  Given that the few loaves have overproofed, I decided to play it safe and threw the dough into the fridge when we left for the event.  This was definitely the correct decision, since we ended up meeting up with some friends and stayed out past dinner.

    On Monday I took the dough out after work, warmed it up, but ultimately decided it wasn’t ready to bake.  It was getting late and a bake would have really made it a late night.  With my tendency to wake up early, anything past ten is a bit too late.

    However, the dough wasn’t getting any younger and we had also finished our bounty from last week’s overproofing fiasco.  So on Tuesday I brought it out after work, warmed it in the proofing oven until 8:20, after which I fired it up to 350f. The dough had not completely warmed up, so I folded the dough, an exercise I had recently stopped doing, and it held its shape nicely.

    Aside from the long proof and the mixer, I tried two other deviations from my usual process.  First, I did not preheat the lid. The process of handling a preheated dutch oven is fraught enough, I’d just as soon avoid having to work with a hot lid as well.  Given how this one came out, I’m not sure this will be a permannt change, but I’m going to try again with a normal dough.  The other twist came from my coworker who wets her ball of dough with her hands to get a chewier crust. Unfortunately this dough came out with an very thin crust, so while it fun to fondle the dough before throwing it into the dutch oven, I doubt I’ll try it again, certainly not with an enriched bread.

    The process of transferring the dough to the dutch oven was uneventful, five snips to the top, throw on the lid, and back into the oven. As usual, I baked for the first half hour with the lid on, and the rise looked good when I took it off.  The crust was still white after twenty minutes without the lid, so I ended up baking it for another forty minutes.  After an hour and a half in the oven, I was getting worried about drying out the loaf so I pulled it out even though the crust was still very pale.

    This morning, I just cut my first slice and the verdict is mixed.  The crumb is just fine, the usual density I generally get as long as I avoid overproofing the loaf. However, the crust is paper thin; the color in the oven did not lie.  I avoided going high on the oven to avoid burning the fats in the butter and milk, but I think I may have stayed too low, especially since I maybe could have gone higher because this bread did not include any sugar in the mix.

    And finally, the bread is a bit sour.  A couple weeks ago, I had pondered why my sourdoughs are never sour.  I’ve read that the key is a cold proof, which doesn’t happen naturally in Vegas, so I rationally knew the answer.  Now I’ve proved it to myself.  However, my wife is not a fan of commercial sourdoughs, so I doubt it won’t go over well with her.  But my daughter, who will drink the vinegar and soy sauce mix that we make for potstickers, might dig the flavor.

    If we ever make butter again, I’ll definitely use the buttermilk in the dough, though I don’t plan on voluntarily repeating this extended proof unless circumstances force the issue again.

  • Vegas in Autumn

    My wife and I were talking about our favorite season of the year and concluded that it is fall.  Summer is too hot and winter too chilly.  Spring is nice enough, but it is marred with a sense of foreboding; every day brings us closer to the dreaded start of summer.  Late May is the hardest part of summer, when the heat hits in force, but you have not yet been acclimated to triple digit intensity.

    In Houston, it’s not the heat in August but the heat in October that gets you.  Out there the relentless humidity lingers until just about Halloween.  With our dry heat, Vegas is much harsher when the sun is up, and equally as relentless around the clock in July, but it does lighten up in the evenings, especially as summer winds down.

    This transition between summer and fall sets the scene of my favorite vignette in the city after living here for half a decade.  I’ve seen it in multiple playgrounds as children and parents are released from the coop of their air conditioned boxes.  The kids race around on the equipment as the parents are chatting on the side.  You hear yelps and screams, and three or four languages mix together around you.  Everyone is out.  A collective energy fills the air.

    I wonder if any other city has as much a divergence between its public and private personas.  But if you want a glimpse at the heart of this city, drive out to a playground right now, this evening, and we’ll be here to show you.

  • My newsletters

    After doing a big culling last year, there are four regular email newsletters I still read.

    1. Seth Godin – daily blog, great stuff in general, usually focused on marketing from a very empathetic, respectful yet challenging perspective
    2. CJ Chilvers – a thoughtful writer whose approach on photography I really align with.
    3. MyModernMet – A great collection of art from all different disciplines
    4. American Life in Poetry – a weekly poem sent every Monday, curated by Tim Kooser, former poet Laureate.

    There is actually a 5th newsletter that I am provisionally following – Tim Ferris.  I’ve gotten a kick out of his content for the past month, but I’m not sure it will survive the next culling.  I like the stuff he puts on the newsletter, but he embodies a certain self satisfied attitude that doesn’t sit well with me.

    I do subscribe to all my old newsletters in a “read later” folder, but honestly I haven’t looked at that folder for half a year.  If I want to read randomly, there’s facebook, or better yet a massive pile of books at home and available at the library.

  • Bread, 09 September 2018

    This week’s bread was a pretty standard setup, but it went sideways since I overproofed it, again.  I’ve been on a bad run over overproofing my doughs, so this was yet another opportunity to try and rescue the final product.

    I mixed the dough before breakfast with my standard 4-3-1-.1+~30% ratio

    400g flour
    300g water
    100g starter (the usual 50/50 mix)
    10g salt
    60g rehydrated figs
    60g chia seeds soaked in 90g water

    So far so good, and the autolyse and the folds all went as planned.  However we had some friends drop by the house and the kids ran around the house all afternoon.  They didn’t stay for dinner, but the next thing you know its 5pm and the dough was already well overproofed.

    I tried to rescue it by adding 200g flour and 100g water, but after an hour it was still really slack.  So I kneaded in in another 100g flour, which helped a bit, but still was not feeling right.  After another hour I kneaded in another 100g of flour and waited.  At 9pm, I preheated the oven to 480f, dumped out the dough, preshaped, cut, reshaped, and then threw them into the dutch ovens and baked.  I made one additional mistake, I forgot to lower my temperature to 420f when I took off the lids, which meant the loaves ended up pretty dark.  I like the heavier toasted flavors of the crust, but it makes for hard cutting.

    Even though the loaves did not have an impressive rise, but the crumb was still moist and avoided being completely rock hard dense, so it was not a total failure.  In the future, when I try to rescue a loaf, I think I’ll just add flour without water.  And I think I’m going to change my standard baking process to just keep it at an even 450f throughout, instead of starting at 480f and then lowering it to 420f midway like I’ve been doing for the past month.

    When I first started baking, I made a slew of overproofed doughs and had no idea how to save them. After the successful salvage a couple weeks ago, when I didn’t only just add flour but also really kneaded the dough, it seems that I now have a way to save overproofed doughs.  Ultimately I’d still prefer to avoid having to practice this fallback process too often.

  • QBQ, John G. Miller, 2001

    Self-help books are my comfort food of non-fiction prose. Generally, I find them easy reads, tackle practical issues, and good for getting me fired up for a few days, occasionally leaving a nugget that will stay for a while. I’m only writing this review a week after I first read QBQ by John G. Miller, but I’m pretty certain this one is a keeper, which is a little surprising since this book is centered on the oft trod concept of “personal accountability”, without even trying to come up with some gimmicky counter-intuitive approach.

    The genius in this book its a concise memorable formula for a good self-question: “Who/How” + “I” + “Action”. I follow the news, so I know things out there can be really complex, but for any issue that directly affects me day to day, I agree with author’s basic black and white premise that there are incorrect self-questions (that result in inaction) and good self-questions (that get me moving forward). This clarity of this dichotomy and the simplicity of the QBQ formula is perfect for what this book is trying to do – catalyze action among its readers.

    Along with this basic clear formulation, there are two additional items which further recommend this book. The first is context – as America continues to lean further towards a service economy, this book will become increasingly relevant for those of us working in it. His examples highlight how excellence is accomplished in mundane interactions. Second, the book is succinct, and I mean that as a high compliment. I recently read another book that had a simple premise which was stretched out to three times its necessary length. Mr. Miller respects our time; his message is simple (though not easy) and he doesn’t wear out his welcome – this is a book you can give to a friend without hesitation.

    In all, it’s certainly worthy of a 5-star review. While there are folks in the world who are truly enslaved in circumstances beyond their control, if you’ve got the wherewithal to be reading customer reviews on Amazon, you’re most likely not one of them. This book is highly recommended.

  • Still Rockin’!

    This little guy. We made pancakes on July 4th, leaving just a little remnant left in the stainless steel starter bowl but forgot to refeed him. While I drove off to run some errands, my mother in law saw the “empty” bowl and tried to wash it out, leaving it to soak in the kitchen sink.

    So you could imagine the shock and horror when I came back and saw the bowl filled with dirty dishwater. But there was still some stuff crusted on the sides and a dollop of starter maybe the size of a small candy corn at the bottom of the bowl. So we threw out the dirty water and dumped 50 grams of flour and 50 grams of water back into it.

    Must have been a rough day for him cause nothing really happened that night (usually you get a nice ferment by eight hours), but I decided to wait till the morning to give him his last rites.

    I woke up the next morning planning to start anew but I looked in the bowl and l he was good – frothy and poofy! There was the minor issue of the gnarly dishwater soak, so I tossed and refreshed him a few times before throwing him into the fridge….and then pulling him out to make this lovely loaf.

    So for those keeping score at home he’s now survived death by boiling (threw in too hot water one day, but was able to rescue him by pulling off some dough before I baked my loaf) and now death by dishwashing. I had wanted to say “Don’t mess with Mr. Mianbaobao!”, but honestly, he can take it.

  • That Bread!

    I got out of Berkeley at the bottom of the dot com bust so I ended up working as a landscaping laborer. As could be expected I had a pretty hefty caloric demand but was light on cash. Furthermore our lunch breaks were also quite short (we bundled our paid breaks into a paid 30 minute lunch).

    So my solution was to bring loaf of bread with meat in a can, usually Vienna sausage but anything would do. I tried to upscale this simple menu by baking my own bread. But I didn’t know what I was doing and had very little luck, though I did end up making a sourdough starter that made some awesome pancakes for a while.

    Earlier this year, my wife read about sourdough pancakes in the New York Times.  The thought of sourdough rekindled the old nostalgia and so my girl and I made a sourdough starter, which then lead to the old bread baking thing getting fired up again. In the intervening years the whole hipster artisan bread baking fad had started including the major innovation of baking in a Dutch oven.  Conveniently we had acquired one on sale from the back of an Ace Hardware on Westheimer in Houston, even though it was used only once in the intervening eight years. Along with internet content, the library had Jim Lahey’s My Bread and Ken Forkish’s excellent Flour Water Salt Yeast cookbooks.

    It took a week of baking every day to accidentally make a decent loaf that wasn’t hard as a rock. We danced around the kitchen that evening. And then two more weeks of baking every day to start doing it consistently. Over the past eight months I’ve been banging out lean breads about once a week – water salt flour (and accents like raisins and walnuts) – hearty stuff with a hard crust and varying crumb cause I’m just aight. But after she started buying bread (hint, hint) I broke down and decided to make an enriched bread this weekend.

    Actually I forgot I was going to try an enriched bread yesterday morning until after the initial mix. But after all these other experiments and reading Ruhlman’s Ratio and Robertson’s Tartine books I’ve come to realize it’s all fairly improvisational once you got a feel for the basics so I threw in a little extra flour, milk, sugar, and butter. And after letting the guy proof all day I baked it at a nice sedate 350.

    I woke this morning and tried a slice. And well here it is. The bread I dreamed about making 16 years ago.

  • On Boardgaming

    I was asked on a photography forum to say a little more about the boardgaming hobby. Here was my response:

    How do I start? Well, one could go to the website boardgamegeek.com, but that place is UI disaster until you get used it (totally designed by engineers!)

    The best way to describe modern boardgaming is that it is an outgrowth of a lot of European (especially German) boardgame design from the 90’s and 00’s. Key features include a limited time length, no player elimination, and controlled interaction. In a word, anti-Monopoly (especially Monopoly as with its common house rules).

    The top standard of German family boardgaming is a prize called the Spiel Des Jahres (SDJ) and which judges games at a medium light weight level of complexity. Unfortunately the crowd in hobby sites (like Boardgamegeek) tends to favor niche stuff so their database rankings favor heavy complicated stuff (similar to how photographers lust over L glass even though most other humans would be more interested in the latest bedazzled iphone 6s case).

    Even though I consider myself a “serious” boardgamer, I personally don’t enjoy complicated fare. I grok the joy of a good brain burning puzzle, but I prefer the elegance of a pared down game where the interaction is the emergent outgrowth of an carefully curated set of simple rules.

    Modern classics for people looking to get into the hobby would be Settlers of Catan (the big hit kickstarted this whole eurogame trend), Carcassonne, and Ticket to Ride (which got me back into the boardgaming hobby after a decade long hiatus). I would also want to point out Pandemic and Hanabi which are both excellent cooperative games (where everyone plays together as a team to beat the game system).

  • the office restroom

    Lately I’ve been reading William Eggleston’s Guide and Stephen Shore’s Uncommon Places.

    Which led me to take a few photos that tried to capture that plainspoken ethos…from my office restroom.

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